Mexican Food in Madrid

  

Walking home from work the other night, we were in the mood for Mexican food.  After some pre-dinner tapas, we stopped at La Leyenda del Agave in the Salamanca district.  First up were some Negra Modelo beers, a good change of pace from the ubiquitous Mahou that we've been drinking for the last six months.

 

Drinks in hand, we surveyed the scene and the extensive menu (see video above). We settled on guacamole and chips as a starter (about 6 euro).  Then, we moved on to a mixed plate of meats with cochinita pibil and carnitas (about 14 euro).  

We were slightly disappointed by the tortillas, but we admit that we have high standards here.  Having grown up in Texas and having lived in Northern Mexico, we dream of fresh, warm corn tortillas.  La Leyenda's tortillas are made of flour, and they're not half bad, but nothing special either. (We might just have fond memories of the corn tortillas we ate at La Neta in Stockholm, Sweden.)

Judging from the restaurant's very intricate website, La Leyenda del Agave aims to be the real Mexican deal in Madrid.  On some nights, they even have live mariachi music.

La Leyenda del Agave
Calle Nunez de Balboa, 37
28001 Madrid, Spain
+34 914311606

Casa Mingo

Over the Easter holidays, we had relatives in town who were looking for a Madrid experience that was a bit off-the-beaten-path.  Spanish friends recommended a trip to Casa Mingo for roast chicken and cider followed by a visit to the nearby Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, a small chapel with Goya's tomb and beautiful Goya frescos.  It was a perfect afternoon in Madrid, and, best of all, it was cheap! 

Here's our recommendation.  Put your walking shoes on and take the metro to the Principe Pío stop.  From there, you'll need to take about a 15 minute walk to Paseo de la Florida 34, where you'll find Casa Mingo. Opened in 1888, it is known for its home-brewed apple cider served with Asturian food.

Chicken roasting on a spit at Casa Mingo

Blue cheese and cider appetizer

Our meal for four adults was under 35 euro, including a bottle of the house cider, a roast chicken, a plate of blue cheese and a sausage appetizer.  We loved the ambiance with dark wood tables and cider barrels lining the walls.  Sure, it might be a little touristy, and it did get crowded around the 2pm the lunch rush, but we had a great time.  Next time, we'll try the more expensive cider, the one that has a higher alcohol content and that you pour at an arm's length into your drinking cup.  And also of note, they don't serve coffee, so head over to Goya's tomb and then look for a cafe to discuss what you've seen!  If you're still feeling frisky, you might  add in a visit to Templo de Debod, the authentic Egyptian temple, in a nearby park.

Casa Mingo
Paseo de La Florida, 34
+34915477918
11:00 – 00:00 daily

Tandoori Station

Let's face it, sometimes you need to take a break for Spanish cuisine. The jamon, the olive oil, the white bread, the olives -- it can be salty and oily.  We've found that a visit to Tandoori Station can cure our Spanish-food blues.  It's a step away from the normal Madrid eatery with its sleek, contemporary  atmosphere.

 

Tandoori Station is a nice mix of Indian cuisine.  They have the curries, rice pilaf, naan and chai, but also Spanish sensibility (e.g., red wine and a penchant for lingering).  Service is fast and attentive; they even speak in English.  While it can be crowded, they usually make some kind of accommodation to get you seated.

Be aware that Tandoori Station opens at 8:30pm, and it's usually crowded.  If you think of it, make a reservation before you go, or get there early.  Yum!

Tandoori Station
Calle de José Ortega y Gasset 89 y 91
28006 Madrid, Spain
914 01 22 2

How to tapa like a pro

We've been in Madrid just shy of 5 months, so we've had our fair share of tapas.  Here's what we've learned so far about how to enjoy a proper tapa experience.  (If you need to wikipedia prep yourself on what tapas are all about, please do so before reading on.)  Just know that the Spanish tapa hop is about small snacking in bars and cafeterias along with a beverage, usually beer or wine. 

In our experience, the basic ingredients to a good Madrid tapa experience are to (1) choose the right time; (2) play it cool when you enter the bar; and (3) practice the art of lingering.

First, a good time to "tapa" is during the "merienda," which is the time inbetween lunch and dinner.  In Madrid, that might be roughly between 7-9 PM.  It's a good time to have a soda, beer, glass of wine or a coffee.  A friend recently said the merienda makes up the third meal of a typical four meal Spanish day (that's breakfast, lunch, merienda, and dinner).  (Note: you can start earlier if you are on vacation or it's the weekend.)  Here's one example of our recent tapa stop for a "caña" (small beer) and some manchego cheese wtih crunchy bread sticks. 

Once you've picked the right time, you need to play it cool when you enter the bar or cafeteria.  Generally, look for a place where there are people, and you'll be in luck.  Go up to the counter, and order your drink.  Hang back a bit while the waiter is getting your order.  Check out the menu, look around at the restaurant or check out the other customers.  When your drink arrives, you'll probably get a small plate of something scrumptious.  Here's an example of another tapa we got, which was fried calamares (for the record, this was nothing special):

Finally, you want to linger with your drink and tapa.  No need to rush.  Talk, hang out, check your email, whatever.  Just don't rush, and don't rush to pay your bill.  Enjoy your time.  When you are ready to leave, make some "packing up moves."  You might gather your purse or put your coat on.  Stand up.  At this point, the waiter will hand you the check ("la cuenta"), and you can pay.  In Madrid, at least, tapas are normally free, so your bill should just reflect the drinks you ordered.  After you've paid, head off to your next stop!

On tipping:  We usually leave a little tip if we go for a drink.  If the bill is under 5 euro, you might leave 20-30 cents.  Maybe a little more.  Spain isn't a big tipping culture, so don't feel obligated.  But, if you want to, a little extra is never a bad thing.

Bar Milford

There's a lot of exciting cuisine to be had in Madrid, but let's face it, sometimes you just want a classic experience.  If you're up for a retro bar in Salamanca, then look no further than Bar Milford.  You'll see men in suits with slicked back hair, old ladies with fur coats and expensive purses, and bartenders who know how to pour a stiff "Gin Tonic" into a Spanish goblet! 

Seriously, if you're in the mood for old-school Madrid, then Bar Milford is a good choice for an early evening drink.  Beer and wine are fine, cocktails look even better.  With your drink, you'll get a nice spread of tapas.  On a recent night, we had a bowl of chips and two different tapas, one with jamon and one with tuna and tomato.

The raciones are somewhat expensive, and frankly, uninspiring.  Save your money for another round.  There is a full restaurant up the spiral staircase, although we think you'd be better off heading somewhere else for dinner.  But, for a glimpse into the the well-heeled lives of Salamanca's elite, Bar Milford is worth a visit.  And, don't worry if you forgot your Prada -- somehow everyone fits right in.

Bar/Restaurante Milford 

C/ Juan Bravo, 7, 28006 Madrid, Spain 

+34 915 75 80 80 ‎

Cafe Commercial

Cafe Commercial is one of the oldest cafes in Madrid and today seems as vibrant and busy as at any time in its long and colorful past. There's a lot of background on this place, which we'll probably understand better as we have more time in Spain.

As far as cafes go, it always seems to have an open table and a good vibe. We've had beers and coffees here. (Next time, we'll cross it off of our chocolate y churros hit-list. Look for the update.) But the ambiance is the attraction. You can see how a group of intellectuals would get down to argumentative business in a joint like this, because people are still doing it. And, for the record, yes we have met up here with our "intellectual" friends!

Fair warning: as with any long-standing place, don't let your unrealized fantasies of chatting it up with Ortega y Gasset blow out your expectations. It's a cup a coffee, not a religious experience. Enjoy it for what it is ... or was, we suppose.

Cafe Commercial
Glorieta Bilbao, 7
28004 Madrid, Spain
915 215 655

If you're near the Prado, try Estado Puro

If you're planning a morning at the Prado Museum, Estado Puro is a good bet for tapas and drinks.  We've also heard that it's a nice place for dinner, but you probably should call ahead for reservations.

The restaurant is located across the street from the main entrance of the Prado on Plaza Cánovas del Castillo. Some of our friends raved about it for innovative, exciting tapas, so we ducked in on a rainy afternoon to give it a try.

Presa iberica con chimichuri

Arroz negro

21st century tortilla

We'll admit that this place isn't a hidden gem, and Estado Puro certainly caters to a touristy crowd.  But the beef dish we tried was nice, and the rice dish, "arroz negro," which took 20 minutes, didn't disappoint.  And the frothy cup that looks like a latte is actually the restaurant's signature take on a tortilla espanola.  It was interesting and worth splitting between two people.

The waitstaff was helpful in offering suggestions for wine pairings, although they had limited English.  As we recall, the price tag for lunch with wine was about 35 euro.  The ambiance was pretty cool too, with lacy decorative filigree mantilla combs on the walls and ceiling.  Keep in mind, though, that that Estado Puro bills themselves as a "new concept of tapas bar," so big entrees are not on this menu.

Estado Puro, Hotel NH
Paseo del Prado
Plaza Cánovas del Castillo, 4
Madrid
(34-91) 330-2400