Mexican Food in Madrid

  

Walking home from work the other night, we were in the mood for Mexican food.  After some pre-dinner tapas, we stopped at La Leyenda del Agave in the Salamanca district.  First up were some Negra Modelo beers, a good change of pace from the ubiquitous Mahou that we've been drinking for the last six months.

 

Drinks in hand, we surveyed the scene and the extensive menu (see video above). We settled on guacamole and chips as a starter (about 6 euro).  Then, we moved on to a mixed plate of meats with cochinita pibil and carnitas (about 14 euro).  

We were slightly disappointed by the tortillas, but we admit that we have high standards here.  Having grown up in Texas and having lived in Northern Mexico, we dream of fresh, warm corn tortillas.  La Leyenda's tortillas are made of flour, and they're not half bad, but nothing special either. (We might just have fond memories of the corn tortillas we ate at La Neta in Stockholm, Sweden.)

Judging from the restaurant's very intricate website, La Leyenda del Agave aims to be the real Mexican deal in Madrid.  On some nights, they even have live mariachi music.

La Leyenda del Agave
Calle Nunez de Balboa, 37
28001 Madrid, Spain
+34 914311606

Casa Mingo

Over the Easter holidays, we had relatives in town who were looking for a Madrid experience that was a bit off-the-beaten-path.  Spanish friends recommended a trip to Casa Mingo for roast chicken and cider followed by a visit to the nearby Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, a small chapel with Goya's tomb and beautiful Goya frescos.  It was a perfect afternoon in Madrid, and, best of all, it was cheap! 

Here's our recommendation.  Put your walking shoes on and take the metro to the Principe Pío stop.  From there, you'll need to take about a 15 minute walk to Paseo de la Florida 34, where you'll find Casa Mingo. Opened in 1888, it is known for its home-brewed apple cider served with Asturian food.

Chicken roasting on a spit at Casa Mingo

Blue cheese and cider appetizer

Our meal for four adults was under 35 euro, including a bottle of the house cider, a roast chicken, a plate of blue cheese and a sausage appetizer.  We loved the ambiance with dark wood tables and cider barrels lining the walls.  Sure, it might be a little touristy, and it did get crowded around the 2pm the lunch rush, but we had a great time.  Next time, we'll try the more expensive cider, the one that has a higher alcohol content and that you pour at an arm's length into your drinking cup.  And also of note, they don't serve coffee, so head over to Goya's tomb and then look for a cafe to discuss what you've seen!  If you're still feeling frisky, you might  add in a visit to Templo de Debod, the authentic Egyptian temple, in a nearby park.

Casa Mingo
Paseo de La Florida, 34
+34915477918
11:00 – 00:00 daily

Tandoori Station

Let's face it, sometimes you need to take a break for Spanish cuisine. The jamon, the olive oil, the white bread, the olives -- it can be salty and oily.  We've found that a visit to Tandoori Station can cure our Spanish-food blues.  It's a step away from the normal Madrid eatery with its sleek, contemporary  atmosphere.

 

Tandoori Station is a nice mix of Indian cuisine.  They have the curries, rice pilaf, naan and chai, but also Spanish sensibility (e.g., red wine and a penchant for lingering).  Service is fast and attentive; they even speak in English.  While it can be crowded, they usually make some kind of accommodation to get you seated.

Be aware that Tandoori Station opens at 8:30pm, and it's usually crowded.  If you think of it, make a reservation before you go, or get there early.  Yum!

Tandoori Station
Calle de José Ortega y Gasset 89 y 91
28006 Madrid, Spain
914 01 22 2

How to tapa like a pro

We've been in Madrid just shy of 5 months, so we've had our fair share of tapas.  Here's what we've learned so far about how to enjoy a proper tapa experience.  (If you need to wikipedia prep yourself on what tapas are all about, please do so before reading on.)  Just know that the Spanish tapa hop is about small snacking in bars and cafeterias along with a beverage, usually beer or wine. 

In our experience, the basic ingredients to a good Madrid tapa experience are to (1) choose the right time; (2) play it cool when you enter the bar; and (3) practice the art of lingering.

First, a good time to "tapa" is during the "merienda," which is the time inbetween lunch and dinner.  In Madrid, that might be roughly between 7-9 PM.  It's a good time to have a soda, beer, glass of wine or a coffee.  A friend recently said the merienda makes up the third meal of a typical four meal Spanish day (that's breakfast, lunch, merienda, and dinner).  (Note: you can start earlier if you are on vacation or it's the weekend.)  Here's one example of our recent tapa stop for a "caña" (small beer) and some manchego cheese wtih crunchy bread sticks. 

Once you've picked the right time, you need to play it cool when you enter the bar or cafeteria.  Generally, look for a place where there are people, and you'll be in luck.  Go up to the counter, and order your drink.  Hang back a bit while the waiter is getting your order.  Check out the menu, look around at the restaurant or check out the other customers.  When your drink arrives, you'll probably get a small plate of something scrumptious.  Here's an example of another tapa we got, which was fried calamares (for the record, this was nothing special):

Finally, you want to linger with your drink and tapa.  No need to rush.  Talk, hang out, check your email, whatever.  Just don't rush, and don't rush to pay your bill.  Enjoy your time.  When you are ready to leave, make some "packing up moves."  You might gather your purse or put your coat on.  Stand up.  At this point, the waiter will hand you the check ("la cuenta"), and you can pay.  In Madrid, at least, tapas are normally free, so your bill should just reflect the drinks you ordered.  After you've paid, head off to your next stop!

On tipping:  We usually leave a little tip if we go for a drink.  If the bill is under 5 euro, you might leave 20-30 cents.  Maybe a little more.  Spain isn't a big tipping culture, so don't feel obligated.  But, if you want to, a little extra is never a bad thing.

Bar Milford

There's a lot of exciting cuisine to be had in Madrid, but let's face it, sometimes you just want a classic experience.  If you're up for a retro bar in Salamanca, then look no further than Bar Milford.  You'll see men in suits with slicked back hair, old ladies with fur coats and expensive purses, and bartenders who know how to pour a stiff "Gin Tonic" into a Spanish goblet! 

Seriously, if you're in the mood for old-school Madrid, then Bar Milford is a good choice for an early evening drink.  Beer and wine are fine, cocktails look even better.  With your drink, you'll get a nice spread of tapas.  On a recent night, we had a bowl of chips and two different tapas, one with jamon and one with tuna and tomato.

The raciones are somewhat expensive, and frankly, uninspiring.  Save your money for another round.  There is a full restaurant up the spiral staircase, although we think you'd be better off heading somewhere else for dinner.  But, for a glimpse into the the well-heeled lives of Salamanca's elite, Bar Milford is worth a visit.  And, don't worry if you forgot your Prada -- somehow everyone fits right in.

Bar/Restaurante Milford 

C/ Juan Bravo, 7, 28006 Madrid, Spain 

+34 915 75 80 80 ‎

Cafe Commercial

Cafe Commercial is one of the oldest cafes in Madrid and today seems as vibrant and busy as at any time in its long and colorful past. There's a lot of background on this place, which we'll probably understand better as we have more time in Spain.

As far as cafes go, it always seems to have an open table and a good vibe. We've had beers and coffees here. (Next time, we'll cross it off of our chocolate y churros hit-list. Look for the update.) But the ambiance is the attraction. You can see how a group of intellectuals would get down to argumentative business in a joint like this, because people are still doing it. And, for the record, yes we have met up here with our "intellectual" friends!

Fair warning: as with any long-standing place, don't let your unrealized fantasies of chatting it up with Ortega y Gasset blow out your expectations. It's a cup a coffee, not a religious experience. Enjoy it for what it is ... or was, we suppose.

Cafe Commercial
Glorieta Bilbao, 7
28004 Madrid, Spain
915 215 655

If you're near the Prado, try Estado Puro

If you're planning a morning at the Prado Museum, Estado Puro is a good bet for tapas and drinks.  We've also heard that it's a nice place for dinner, but you probably should call ahead for reservations.

The restaurant is located across the street from the main entrance of the Prado on Plaza Cánovas del Castillo. Some of our friends raved about it for innovative, exciting tapas, so we ducked in on a rainy afternoon to give it a try.

Presa iberica con chimichuri

Arroz negro

21st century tortilla

We'll admit that this place isn't a hidden gem, and Estado Puro certainly caters to a touristy crowd.  But the beef dish we tried was nice, and the rice dish, "arroz negro," which took 20 minutes, didn't disappoint.  And the frothy cup that looks like a latte is actually the restaurant's signature take on a tortilla espanola.  It was interesting and worth splitting between two people.

The waitstaff was helpful in offering suggestions for wine pairings, although they had limited English.  As we recall, the price tag for lunch with wine was about 35 euro.  The ambiance was pretty cool too, with lacy decorative filigree mantilla combs on the walls and ceiling.  Keep in mind, though, that that Estado Puro bills themselves as a "new concept of tapas bar," so big entrees are not on this menu.

Estado Puro, Hotel NH
Paseo del Prado
Plaza Cánovas del Castillo, 4
Madrid
(34-91) 330-2400

Allo Pizza

Allo Pizza is quite the find.  They deliver.  The price is reasonable.  And it is very good pizza with a thicker, crunchier crust and fresh ingredients.

Downside?  It's only delivery or take-out.  If you live nearby, you might as well take-out because the delivery times can stretch into the 60 minute zone.  The upsides are that 1) you get a little exercise, 2) you see their very clean kitchen, and 3) the pizza stays hots and doesn't lose its integrity.  (By integrity, we're not talking about the moral fiber of the pizza, just whether it becomes spongy like Ethiopian bread.)

Yeah, this is good pizza.  There are other options for grabbing a slice or sitting down for a pizza dinner, but for grabbing something to serve your Downton Abby or Final Four Watch Party, this is probably your pie.

Allo Pizza (Office note: This website plays music.)
Three locations below (on the pizza box!)

Hamam Ayala

It's been a cold winter, so a few weekends ago, we decided to warm up and wind down in a hamam.  We headed over to Hamam Ayala, reported to be the first hamam in Madrid, run by a terrific French guy who wanted to open up an authentic Arabic bath in the city.  He spent a lot of time in the Middle East and Africa, and was inspired to share his knowledge in Madrid.

When Hamam Ayala opened in 2009, there was a lot of buzz about it on Spanish television (if you understand Spanish, watch this short film -- as they say, the hamam offers an "opportunity to get clean on the outside and on the inside!).  

For our treatments, we opted for the Arabic bath and a 20 minute massage.  Basically, we entered the hamam, washed, sat in a mint/eucalyptus steam bath, got scrubbed, had a massage, and then were served mint tea and "Arabic" treats.  We paid 75 euro each for the hamam and the massage.

Overall, the experience was good.  The facilities were very clean, the steam room was especially nice (almost Scandinavian) and the service was friendly.  The Moroccan bath attendants (both female) were professional.  But, the place was very empty on a Saturday night, and we noticed that they took a few short cuts in some of the products, such as using the cheap brand of soap in the showers.

As we paid for the services at the end, we asked the owner how the hamam was doing during the economic crisis.  "Not good," was the response.  In fact, he is looking to sell the place in the next couple of months.  Such a shame, but it is one of the realities of the slow economy in Spain.

There are other hamams in Madrid, but Hamam Ayala is the real deal, at least for now.  If it's still around for your visit, try to stop by.


Hamam Ayala
Calle de Ayala, 126  28006 Madrid, Spain

Churros y chocolate

We heard that Madrid got cold in the winter.  However, having braved snowy winters in the American midwest and in Scandinavia, we thought we could handle Spain.  But, even we will admit that things get a bit chilly here in January and February.  Fortunately, there is a way great to keep warm -- churros y chocolate!

There are many places in town to get thick, rich cups of chocolate and the accompanying fried dough sticks.  If you're staying in the city center, you'll probably have heard of Chocolateria San Gines, the classic 24-hour place for chocolate in Madrid.  There's also the Valor chain of chocolate stores.  Either place would make a great start or end to your day. 

In our experience, you want to find somewhere that has freshly fried churros so look for big vats of oil in plain sight to be sure you're getting the freshest possible.  After extensive research, we recommend La Antigua Churreria.  There are three locations in town, but due to close proximity, we've gone back to the Conde de Peñalver 32 location several times (Metro: Goya).  The place has a terrific vibe with lots of neighborhood families and friends stopping by for an early evening (7-8 PM) snack.  Two cups of chocolate and one order of churros come to about 6 euros.

Warning: There's lots to like about the vibe at La Antigua, but the store closes early around 9 PM.  So, don't think of the churros y chocolate as a late night thing at this store, but rather, as an early spoil-your-dinner kind of snack.  You might even think of churros for a mid-morning break at 11 AM so you can make through the day to a 3 PM Spanish lunch.

Yum

Update: We stopped by San Gines on a Sunday morning around noon.  We'll admit that that chocolate was good and the churros were fresh.  The store is charming and worth taking the extra time to find on Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5, near the San Gines church and west of Puerta del Sol.  It is, however, very touristy.  You'll like it though.

Estay Resaurante

We obviously spend a lot of time in the Salamanca District, so we take care to make sure that we don't over-represent this neighborhood.  Convenience means that we generally fail.  But, we do recognize that some places need highlighting and might even be worth a trip into the district.  Estay would fall into that category.  It's especially close by if you're hitting some of Serrano's high end shopping.

Honesty requires the confession that we have probably walked past the entrance dozens of times, sometimes when we were actually cruising for a drink and a pincho.  Maybe it's just me, but it looks tacky from the street.  Not so inviting.



But, once you decide to go in, a spacious bar with lots of seating greets you.  As well as an interesting approach to "mini-cuisine" that means your pinchos are actually small works of art.  We did the chef's selection and got an interesting set of meat-based pinchos that were delicious, but perhaps not quite as memorable as the billing would suggest.  I also noted that no complimentary tapa was served and the bar service wasn't as friendly as we've gotten accustomed to in Madrid.

But, the food and the wines were excellent in a surprisingly hip setting.  We'll visit again and see how our impressions evolve.  One thing is for sure, we won't simply walk by looking for somewhere else.  It's on our map and should probably be on yours.

Estay Restaurante
Calle Hermosilla, 46
http://www.estayrestaurante.com/

Taberna La Daniela

Some places get all of the love.  Taberna La Daniela is featured in a lot of Madrid travel guides and foodie blogs.  Is all the attention deserved?

To be honest, como no!  Which is, confusingly, one way to say "yes" in Spanish.  We visited the Salamanca location to confirm what everyone else in the world has said, Taberna La Daniela is great.



The atmosphere is the first reason.  La Daniela has managed to maintain a sense of family intimacy and friendliness, even though it is generally packed with people.  The decorations, especially the colors, are a classic Madrid look.  The bar area is not very large, but that energy is infectious.  If you're looking for romance or a quiet conversation ... keep walking, perhaps a few doors down to Cerveceria Pardinas on the same street.

And the food? The tortilla is especially well regarded, but we've tried several different types of dishes, with no disappointments.  The benefit of a busy place is that the food you get with your drinks is more than generous (gotta keep that food moving).  Add in a couple of orders and you've really done well for yourself.

We haven't tried the restaurant yet, but when we're in the mood for cocido, which is one of La Daniela's specialities, we're remember to book a table.

Taberna La Daniela
Calles del General Pardinas, 21
http://www.tabernaladaniela.com/

Cerveceria Pardiñas

A couple doors over from the Salamanca location of Taberna La Daniela is another friendly, but less crowded cerveceria that is definitely worth visiting.  The first thing to appreciate is that they have their specialties and are happy to direct you to them.  One of the curiosities from Madrid's generally outstanding customer service is the sense of panic many bartenders get when you ask them for a recommendation.  And, if you happen to have the slightest hint of a foreign accent in Spanish, they're going to direct you to jamon and tortilla española.  Every time.  That, and it can be very difficult to get your waiter's attention for a second round or the bill. 

But, this little place is happy to offer suggestions.  Our waitress was all over us, in a good way, with ideas for another tapa to try.  When we were in the middle of an intense conversation, she even waited to interrupt us.

And the food was terrific.  We munched on potato chips, albondigas (meatballs), and some toast with cheese, beef and peppers.  We even ordered the tortilla, just to mix things up.  Delish.

Cerveceria Pardiñas
Calle General Pardiñas, 25
Salamanca District
91 575 43 88

Three Kings in Madrid

If you happen to be in Madrid for Three Kings celebration on January 6, you're in for a treat.  Not only is this the real Christmas celebration for Madrilenos, but there is lots to do, staring with the Three Kings parade on January 5 the day before.  (Note: If you are traveling in Madrid during this time, there will be bars and restaurants open on the 5th and 6th, but you may want to make reservations ahead if you've got a favorite place in mind).

While this blog is supposed to be about food and wine, we couldn't help but note the truly silly cultural antics of Spaniards at parades, namely carrying ladders to watch the festivities.  In 2012, the parade lasted about two hours long, starting with huge animal floats, followed by jugglers, girls spinning on a trapeze, floats with people tossing hurling candy in the air, and of course, ending with the finale -- the arrival of the Three Kings.  This was an especially sweet moment, with most children truly in awe of the Three Kings' arrival.  If you decide to go to the parade, get there early (with your ladder!).

Families arrive at the parade route several hours before the 6:30 pm start time with ladders in hand.

Note the ladders lining the parade route

On the morning of January 6th, the food item to get is roscón de reyes, or the Kings' Ring (for the record, ours would have gone better with coffee than juice pictured below).  In Spain, roscón de reyes comes in several varieties. Our local bakery had several cream fillings you could get layered in between the sweet cake topped with candied fruit and sugar.  If you decide to venture out for your own cake, our recommendation would be to go to the bakery early before 10 AM to get the best selection!

Much like the tradition of King's cake at  Mardi Gras in Louisiana, there is  a wrapped toy and a wrapped fava bean inside the cake.  In Spain, if you find the toy like this little Santa figure (above), then you are "king" or "queen" of the festivities, and if you find the fava bean, then you buy the cake next year.  Throughout December, some version of this cake was available at most coffee shops, but the cream version was a fun treat to end our long holiday season.  Now, time for the January sales or rebajas...

El Tártaro

At the end of a harder day at work, we just wanted a stiff drink in a classy joint.  One of our co-workers recommended a place on Velazquez with a big mirror.  We ended up at El Tártaro, which turned out to be the wrong place, but is still a lovely find.  We hung out in the bar for a couple of hours, happily chatting and munching on great food.




The first sign that something is cool about a bar (aside from the bike) is when professional-looking photographers are taking pictures of every piece of decor.  And this place is just cool, from the walls decorated with (yes) a huge mirror and cool groupings of photos, to modernist chairs and a Chesterfield (leather button) couch.  Very chill.  No wonder their website notes that the space was designed by a Spanish design firm.  For more pictures, click here.



The waiter was great.  He didn't accept our "vino tinto" request without a discussion about which vino tinto would be right.  He made the decision for us and while we don't actually know what we got, it was still excellent.  The tapas were very large and filling.  As is often the case, two drinks and a half racion was more than an adequate dinner.  We had huevo estrallado con jamón ibérico at the recommendation of the waiter.  We'd seen this often on other menus, but he suggested it.  Terrific. It inspired us to try our own version at home a few days later.  At our waiter's suggestion, we also tried the medallón de foie sobre chalotas confitadas en Pedro Ximénez, which was also something we probably wouldn't have tried on our own.  At least one of us isn't really a foie kind of guy, but it was quite good.  We're pretty sure that we won't be trying this one at home.

The bill exceeded the typical 4 euros one might spend at other places, but we'd return again with friends for cocktails and dinner. The restaurant looks just as cool as the bar, so it's on our list.  Maybe it should be on yours as well.

El Tártaro
Velázquez 102
91 154 22 33
www.eltartaro.es

Restaurante Everest View

One of our great friends in the world has a life-long relationship with Nepal and he's dragged us to more than a few mediocre to excellent Nepali restaurants.  When done poorly/marginally, Indian-Nepali food is greasy, bland/over-spiced, and served with something bordering on apologies by over-worked waiters.  But, as our friend has shown us, when it is done right, it can be one of the most satisfying culinary and cultural experiences.  So, when we saw this place advertising comida hindu y nepali, we had to give it a try for lunch one day.



And lunch was great.  We partook of the daily special, a three course meal, beginning with thin crisp crackers and three delicious sauces.  One of the sauces was almost sweat-inducing spicy, but not painful.  We also ordered some standard naan, which was not too buttery.  A great start to the meal.

Our main dishes were sag paneer and chicken tikki marsala.  Although we weren't served at precisely the same time, we still were happily sharing our dishes in a few minutes.  The portions were reasonable for one person.  The jasmine rice on the side was perfect, not too dry as is sometimes the case with fast Indio-Nepali foods.  The meal finished with two standard desserts: a sweet honey ball and a small yellow cake.  We also enjoyed some tea.

The restaurant is small and we only saw one waiter (who was actually from Nepal), who was very busy.  But, he took some time to chat with us and helped us order with confidence from a fairly long list of options.  The cost of the daily special was something like 11 euros per person, which seem reasonable for the quality.

When our Nepali-phile(?) friend visits us in Madrid, we'll bring him to Everest View and let him try out his Nepali language skills.  We'll also shoot for a dinner and see how they fare outside of the lunch hour.  But, this is a promising start for something a little outside the normal Madrid fare.

Restauarante Everest View
C/ Lagasca, 115
91 210 94 06
www.restauranteeverestview.es

Try a Ribera del Duero

For the last two months, when we've been out at tapa bars, we've gotten by with just asking for "Vino tinto," or a glass of red wine.  If you're not too picky, you will usually get a decent glass at a good price (around 1,50 - 2 euro with something to eat).

Then, we stumbled upon a great wine shop called La Borboleta, where we met up with the owner Antoine.  Recently, Antoine suggested that we pick up a bottle of Ribera del Duero, which he said might become our go-to house wine.   

And, Antoine might be right.  This Tinta del Pais from De Blas Serrano is a Tempranillo.  It's a full-bodied, spicy wine that paired well with the roasted chicken we made for dinner.

After doing some googling, we found that the De Blas Serrano Winery opened in 2005 and is defined by "respect for the earth, tradition, and the client."  We also located the Ribera del Duero region, where the wine comes from, just south of the more well-known Rioja region. (We mentioned that we are complete beginners, no?)

 

The upshot of our discovery is that we can now ask for a "Ribera del Duero" at our local tapa bar, and get one step closer to feeling more like locals in Madrid.

Pizziccheria

Once in a while, only a pizza is going to do it.  Unfortunately, not all pizzerias are created equal and usually it requires some trial-and-error to find the right pie-slingers.  So, we're happy to have found Pizziccheria (Salamanca District, C/Castello, 85), sort of by accident on a random stroll through Salamanca.

When we resolved to actually go there, we the first customers at 8:00pm.  We ended up splitting a Menu del Noche, with a nice salad, a cheese and tomato pizza and a little tiramisu dessert.  We dropped maybe 20 euros, which for two people, isn't bad.  The place has got the bordering-on-a-cruise-ship Italian homage decor, but is pleasant.  It's a big dining room with lots of tables, but smartly laid out to make each table feel intimate.  (Next time, we want to sit by the wall, with some cool classic Italian photos.)  By the time we got up from our seats, we were slightly surprised at how packed the place had gotten.

And the service was friendly, efficient ... and we didn't have to tackle the waiter for the cuenta.
The wine was good.  We liked how the waiter thought about how dinner choices before recommending a wine.  They're proud of their wines, with a large light-up wine display by one wall.



Jury says: the pizza passed the initial crunchy crust (but not soggy in the middle) test.  They do take-away, which can be a disaster in Europe with the prevalence of thin crust pizzas.  But based on the pizza that we had, it can be done (subject to reheating in the oven at home, of course).

Pizziccheria
C/Castello, 85
www.grupopizziccheria.com
91 435 755 33